Everything is uncertain again; the mediation talks were suspended today, giving Annan the opportunity to meet with Odinga and Kibaki directly. Already running two weeks longer than the initial 15-day period, the talks seemed to be making good progress until late last week. Now, with PNU's refusal to concede any power to the proposed PM position, the two parties have reached a stalemate. Considering that ODM renounced its initial stance calling for Kibaki's resignation and agreed to a collaboration, one would think that PNU would also make some symbolic gesture towards reconciliation. But as George said this morning during one of our way-too-early, half-asleep political discussions, Kibaki is using the constitution as a shield. However, compromises must be made, and if Kibaki believes that he will be able to effectively rule this country by hoarding political power, he is a fool. At this rate, there will hardly be a coherent country left to rule. Anything could happen this week. Already, ODM has called for mass demonstrations, and called them off again. The mood is very pessimistic. Several bitter friends have told me that they will think twice about voting again. If a good chunk of the population feels the same way, voter resentment could effectively squelch Kenya's chances of building a functioning democracy. Then again, is democracy truly functional anywhere in the world?

On the municipal level, mayors were elected by councillors in cities across the country yesterday. ODM made huge gains, winning seats in all the main towns in Coast, Nyanza, Rift Valley and Western. Following the lead of national politics, the mayoral races in Nairobi and Nakuru remain unresolved. Councillors in Nakuru descended into physical violence, and the brawls resulted in the postponment of the election there. In Nairobi, the race ended in a tie. Arguments ensued; at one point, the PNU councillors walked out of the proceedings in protest and only returned after three hours. They were seen to have abdicated and the ODM candidate was declared the winner, but that decision was overturned. There was some suggestion that the winner should be determined by drawing lots, which would be just as absurd as flipping a coin to determine the mayor of the capital city. Eventually, the matter was turned to over to Uhuru Kenyatta, the son of the first president and the current Local Government minister.

In the meantime, the internally displaced people are still living off donations from aid organizations and well-wishers. Health issues are becoming a major problem, due to the lack of proper sanitation facilities and insufficient food and safe drinking water. A few camps have experienced cholera outbreaks, which is both immensely unpleasant and potentially fatal. A few days ago, I wrote an issue paper on indigenous peoples' access to improved sanitation and potable water, so the effects of living in an unhygienic environment are still fresh in my mind. I am positive that many of the people living in the camps are now being exposed to such lovely creatures as intestinal parasites. Access to medication has also been an issue, particularly for HIV positive people that have been cut off from their supplies of antiretroviral drugs. Of the 350,000 plus IDPs, it is estimated that at least 15,000 of these are HIV positive, many of whom had been using ARVs on a regular basis and are now without access. Suddenly stopping the course of medication can severely compromise the immune system, particularly for young children. Put thousands of people stripped of their regular defenses in an unsanitary environment, in very close, constant contact with others and deprive them of essential nutrients, and you've good a pretty substantial health crisis on your hands. It's not that I think that a political resolution would solve the IDP crisis, exactly; I don't have enough faith in either of the parties to believe that any intervention they might make at this stage would be terribly effective. But at the very least, an agreement would prevent the resurgence of widespread violence and destruction of property, which would create an even larger population of refugees. I just wish the politicians could see that this is about much more than parties and tribes and the Presidency -- it's about the future of Kenya as a whole, and thousands of lives hang in the balance.

Of course, Kenyans have an eye on American politics these days as well. Barack Obama, whose father was Kenyan, is a popular fellow around these parts. I've seen his smiling face many times on the road, beaming out from the side of matatus alongside Tupac, Nas and Snoop Dogg. But I'm told that Obama supporters mostly come from the Luo community, his father's group of origin. While Kenyans of other tribes would also be happy to see a black man in the White House, particularly one with Kenyan connections, it's the Luos who would be the most proud, or so they say. But black identity politics thrive in Nairobi, borrowing heavily from African-American movements. Civil rights figures such as Martin Luther King, Malcom X and Rosa Parks are well known and respected. African-American entertainers, from hip hop artists to actors to comedians, are absolutely everywhere. I'm sure that a win from Obama would be very welcome.

On a more mundane note, recently my morning commute has been rerouted, due to the outrageous traffic along Jogoo road (Rooster road), which is the most direct path to town. It's not consistent because the matatu routes change depending on the whims of the driver, which can be a bit tricky if you don't know exactly where you're going. But I do love it when we stay off the main road, as it means that we pass through a hectic little neighbourhood called Jericho. Many of the neighbourhoods in Nairobi have these evocative place names. In addition to Jericho, there is also Jerusalem, Kosovo, Baghdad and Soweto. Jericho is a 'project' community; most of the housing was government-built, short concrete flats painted cheerful colours and all lined up in a row, and larger, grey apartment buildings. Wooden shanties with corrugated iron roofs are crowded in between the government housing. And then there are the markets, the sprawling network of stalls selling jiko stoves, pots and pans, bike parts and clueless live chickens. There is also a nauseating section where huge quantities of raw meat is divided up and driven off to its various vendors, right there on the side of the road with the dust and the flies. I try not to think of where my neighbourhood butchery gets its meat. The best part of driving through Jericho is passing by all the shops with their quirky hand-painted signs and charming names. Mercy Butchery is decorated with blood oozing in great gobs from every corner. Jesus is Lord Hair Salon features somewhat frightening religious iconography, red crosses and angry-looking doves. Yoghurt and Jazz Bar II intrigues me every time, and makes me wonder about the first Yoghurt and Jazz Bar. But my absolute favourite is a simple little shop with a sign that reads Laundry and Ironic Services.

In work news, I may be heading to Burundi in a few weeks to help out with/act as a translator for a preparatory meeting for the 9th Conference of Parties on the Convention on Biological Diversity. Representatives of indigenous organizations from Burundi, Rwanda, Uganda and DRC will be in attendance. It will only be for a few days, but it should be interesting.

As always, I am staying as safe and informed as possible, and will try to keep you updated on the situation as it progresses. At least my neighbourhood is very secure, and I can hole up at home or even take of to Tanzania if need be. But, fingers and toes crossed, it won't come to that.