Arusha

To me, the most remarkable thing about Arusha (aside from the gorgeous mountain views) was the number of wedding parties roaming the town on weekends. And it's not just about the people in cars decorated with ribbons and flowers, and the huge groups of women dressed in loud, beautiful patterns -- the amazing thing is that every single wedding party has their own personal brass band which follows them everywhere. You'll see groups of cars passing by, one of which will be a pickup truck, the back filled with dancing, cheering guests, followed by another pickup truck bristling with musicians. They're playing old, beat-up looking instruments (I saw one trombone that was held together by elastic bands), and are slightly quavery and off-pitch, but that doesn't damped their spirits in the least. The brass instruments are joined by drums, and the cumulative effect is something like a high school marching band. But they're playing away like it's the best damn music in the world. I just love their exuberance.

The place I stayed in Arusha was a far cry from the luxurious hotels and camps I experienced over the previous couple of weeks while traveling with my parents. It was a very basic place, right in the middle of the city's central market. The view from my room's window was of rusted tin roofs and concrete walls topped with glistening broken glass, with beautiful Mount Meru looming in the background. In the morning, I was greeted by the sights and sounds of trade -- the men carving and polishing wooden furniture by the side of the road, the women whipping up fabulous creations on their old-fashioned sewing machines, the piles of jeans and rubber boots and pipes and dishes. The little cafes nearby sold thick, sweet chai and traditional dishes (lots of rice-based stuff like pilau, and lots of meat).

Aside from the bustle of hawkers and vendors, Arusha is a bit of a sleepy town. It's a nice place, to be sure, but not a lot going on. I had stayed for a few days and I think that was about the right amount of time. It's clear that Arusha's government is really trying hard to boost tourism in the area by capitalizing on its convenient location for the northern park route, and its safety for people attending conferences and such, but the city itself still has little draw. They would do well to bring more cultural attractions and nightlife to the town, I think.

The best part of Arusha was really just spending some time with Lesikar, who was our guide on the safari -- he was wonderful, keeping me company and showing me around. George also joined me at the end of my stay, which was fabulous -- I really missed him during my vacation, and he brought me some vital items from home as well! George also joined me in the next leg of my journey, to Dar es Salaam.